Friday 2/27 THROUGH Monday 3/2 -- take us home, country roads

The return home wasn't SUPPOSED to be worth a blog entry.  But...

We left Friday to connect in Dallas.  The plane arrived in Mazatlan some 4 hours late, and naturally there was no connection out by the time we arrived in Dallas just as the ice storm moved in.  To add insult to injury (and the fact that the Metroplex was some 92% booked that night, according to an overheard conversation), we couldn't re-check our luggage (we had to claim it to clear customs) because it was too far ahead of our re-booked flight ... so we spent Friday night in the public area of the airport with about 2,000 new-best-friends, pretending we could both get some rest and secure our belongings.   LOL.

We thought, "Well, we'll have a nice dinner at the Hyatt."  NOT!  Sign posted that the restaurant was open only for registered guests that evening.  We understood they were overwhelmed, but it certainly wasn't the welcome we were looking for.  But the Starbucks in our lobby grabbed staff and food from other stands in the airport and remained open and well-stocked all night long, a very much appreciated extra effort.

Saturday Linda was in line for FIVE HOURS to get re-booked, while I was recharging Devices and trying to reach the folks who booked us to see if THEY could help.  In the end it was all up to American Airlines ... but we were too far down the list to get onto any flight as stand-bys on Saturday.  

They wanted to book us on a Monday afternoon flight, but at the last second an opportunity popped up to fly to LaGuardia first thing Sunday morning, make a VERY tight connection and get back to Chicago that afternoon.  So we were up at 4A to catch a 5A shuttle to a 6A plane.  But, of course, the first plane out had to be de-iced, a procedure at which the DFW crews are not skilled.  We missed the LGA connection by about 5 minutes.

Then, of course, (a) we're standby again and (b) snow moves into LaGuardia.  The last plane we were standing by for got diverted to Boston, so we again took a hotel room and got ourselves booked on ... a Monday afternoon flight.  Mind you, our checked luggage has now been in Chicago for several days and we are ... well ... funky would work.

The small saving grace was that a local restaurant offered free shuttle service to and from their nice Italian place from any airport hotel.  We took them up on that offer and enjoyed a good dinner in a substantially-deserted dining room -- the roads were just AWFUL.

At least we didn't have to get up early Monday -- our flight was at 2P.  We enjoyed a late breakfast and got various administrative & craft goals accomplished.  Hopped the noon shuttle, the plane left on time, and we finally got home early Monday evening with an impressive collection of boarding passes.  Tuesday we were worthless, and we've been on the slow road to recovery these past few days.  At least warm winds are arriving here in Chicago now!

Thursday, February 26 -- Gettin' Short

Our last real day of vacation, tomorrow is travel from morning through night.  We'll lose just a few degrees along the way, so we feel a little foolish saying it's cool this morning!

As I was packing up, I thought I'd document the accessories we travel with to support the goal of cooking in ... these plus a quart-sized pitcher with cover, a set of thin plastic cutting "boards," and a much larger assortment of spices & herbs.  Makes life fairly easy!

 As we reviewed what was available for dinner, we figured to finish off a couple things with just a few bites left, as well as sample the tamales and beans that Alicia, Silvia & Martha had contributed.  So we did in the Achiote/Garlic Pork Taco meat and the remnants of our beans, and enjoyed our first taste of Silvia's beans.  Alicia's tamales were savory (wrapped in yellow and stuffed with chicken and vegetables) and sweet (wrapped in green ... was it a plantain filling?).  Quite a nourishing meal!

We assembled our towel-origami zoo for a farewell portrait ...










and enjoyed the echoes of a beautiful sunset while waiting for our friends to arrive.







Turns out they had attacked the tequila & mango distillery which we'd visited on Tuesday morning, so a part of the afternoon had turned into nap/recovery time.  L'Chaim!  Our buffet this evening was augmented by mouthwatering tamales with chicken or corn filling, and a vat of wonderfully-seasoned refried beans.  So very tasty!

Wednesday, February 25 -- Mexican Feast

We did not have much planned for today, knowing that Martha, Alicia and Silvia would be joining us.  But we didn't know exactly WHEN!

After our long day yesterday we just started a little slowly; the Mexican pastries from Concordia were carefully divided so everyone could taste each type.  After a leisurely repast, Linda and Claudette repaired to the pool and Carolyn to her needlework and also to be ready at the phone when our friends arrived.  (Security here is not oppressive, but it is effective.  We knew someone should be available to meet them in the lobby.)








Meanwhile, a housekeeper-in-training tended to our room today and left an Alpha Swan for us to deal with -- hope it doesn't nibble our toes!









As it turned out, they enjoyed the beachfront at their downtown hotel and arrived in the afternoon.  No worries, the food was all prepared and just needed a quick heating up.  We were able to get caught up with each other a little more, Martha being the translator extraordinaire.  Alicia and Carolyn shared progress on handcraft projects, and Alicia (who's very qualified to judge!) pronounced the beautiful knit shawl to be of highest quality.

We served up the various dishes and everyone had a good time guessing the ingredients.  As it was well into the evening when we finished ... back downtown with the visitors, and off to bed with us!

Tuesday, February 24 -- Colonial Towns and F.I.S.H.

 Up bright and early again, our tour pickup is at 9:15.  We've sliced into the last bread, another sourdough half, reminding us to enjoy our stay while it lasts!

We set off toward three small colonial towns, first threading our way through the narrow streets of Malpica.  While it hardly seems populated, there are some 650 hardy souls calling it home.




Along the way, we stopped at a small pottery and furniture maker.  We watched a molcajete being made from clay trucked down from the mountains; the artisan kneaded it and patted out a thick round, then formed it over a mold.  After a good deal of tamping down and trimming the excess from the edges, he removed the bowl from the mold and applied a rope of clay to form a foot for the piece to stand on.  It will dry in the reliable sun and then be decorated and fired before being ready for sale.

This stop also offered fine views of the local iguanas!

This "cotton tree" sported white bolls that actually can be spun into thread which is woven into cloth.  The tree looks like it might have been caught in a popcorn storm!

 

Enroute, we passed Elephant Mountain, a distinctive land form that has been used for centuries as a landmark to find promising areas for mining, both silver and other minerals.

 

Shortly after seeing the Elephant (see its trunk on the left and its big ear!), we passed a mine entrance on the other side of the road -- just a door-sized hole in the mountain, with miners on break outside in the sunshine.

 The area is also a major producer of Roma tomatoes and various chiles -- this field seemed to be jalapenos, many red and ripe for the picking.










Concordia's town square features its stone church ... the single tower indicates that it was founded by the Jesuits.  If the Franciscans had founded it they would have constructed two towers.  This church also hides a lengthy tunnel running all the way to the Sierra Madre mountains in the distance, which enabled the faithful to avoid slaughter during an attack.

Across from the church was the center of the town square, featuring a gazebo,

a giant rocking chair (in homage to the local furniture artisans), 

an ore car, and our little touring van.










A short hop to the commercial street, where we visited a fine jewelry store (where prices were nice due to low rent and no taxes!).  Then we walked around the corner to a tile-maker's studio.  He coats a mold with an oil and dabs some pigment into it, then fills it with cement and creates a marbled pattern with his Very Special Instrument -- the eraser end of a pencil!  No two are alike, and the color palettes were very attractive.  But at some 3# per tile, we knew we would be way over the luggage weight limit if we took one home.


 The final stop in Concordia was a bakery, where we tried our hand with the big clay-and-brick oven.  We also picked up a variety of pastries for breakfast ... gotta make that sourdough last one more day!

These fearsome trees are very spiny all around their trunks and branches, and the story goes that children who misbehaved were required to climb up them, to their great sorrow.  Beyond that, the fruits at the ends of the branches are poisonous -- best to avoid this plant altogether, we felt.









 Another drive up twisty mountain roads and then DOWN a precipitous dirt-and-gravel passage, and we arrived in Copala.  Here we were introduced to a nice restaurant down a steep slope, with an extensive veranda where we enjoyed a good lunch of carne asada (with, of course, rice & beans and a bit of lettuce & tomato) and "Jamaica water" flavored with hibiscus flowers.  A sprint back up to the square level brought us to a small art gallery run by the restaurant's owner (who also had a shingle out as a Realtor).  The featured items were Carneval masks, fantastical representations in painted leather.  We were trailed by several schoolboys who hoped we'd buy some carved wood pieces from them to help support their school, and many of our group did help out.

This town square's center featured a low concrete wall which kept several hens and roosters safely corralled.  We were most impressed with the alpha rooster--he looked like a force to be reckoned with!

This church has some interesting features included in its architecture.  High over the front door is a sort of a gargoyle figure, a man in a hat looking down on those entering.  Legend has it that he spits on unrepentant sinners and on impure young ladies not yet married.  Our group felt a measure of safety from his judgement, but we kept a weather eye out anyway.  

 As we went up the stairs, our guide invited us to pick up three small stones from the gravel in the area, and we went around to the left side of the building.  There, there was a very well-worn devil's head protruding from the wall.  We were to cast our stones at the devil, and if anyone hit the head, their sins would be forgiven -- otherwise, off to confession with you!

We marveled at the ancient architecture and ornate decorations inside the church, which also houses a museum of sacred artifacts.  It's not open to the public, but the door is well-marked just inside the main entryway.

The views of the distant mountains from the walkway surrounding the church were indeed beautiful, as was the remarkably blue sky.

Not surprising to find ebullient flowering shrubs and vines, but very definitely enjoyable.  This one is a bougainvillaea.

The town, founded in 1565, erected an historical plaque celebrating its roots in agriculture, mining, faith and the Church.

After leaving Copala, we were whisked back to the hotel where we freshened up before meeting Martha, Alicia, and Silvia for dinner at F.I.S.H.

Our orders included a variety of tacos ...

 a salmon "po boy" sandwich with those dangerous wedge fries, and ...

a fabulous shrimp plate.

Claudette, Linda, Carolyn, Martha, Alicia, & Silvia

Here we are, discussing TOMORROW's dinner, which will be a buffet including chicken in green pepita sauce, pork tinga, achiote & garlic pork tacos, zucchini tinga, and of course a side of beans.  That's from the Mazatlan contingent. 

The Tepic ladies have contributed two types of tamales and a big bucket of beans as well -- no one will be going home hungry from THIS party!

Monday, February 23 -- A-sailing we will go

We had hoped to space our outings farther apart, but as things worked out, we have one today and one again tomorrow.  Today we set off at 9AM for Stone Island, where we'll enjoy lunch and some beers, and watch others enjoy sun-drenched recreation such as sea kayaking or racing up and down the beach on an ATV.

 Our transport van arrived right on time, and gradually filled to capacity as we picked up co-travelers at various hotels along the way.  The route to the dock was familiar as we'd traveled it last year to the sunset cruise.  It winds through steep, narrow residential streets and hairpin turns, and is a bit ... well ... thrilling at points.  Might we have been feeling just a little smug knowing we didn't need to gasp?

Our transport to the island (which we think is actually a peninsula, but we won't quibble) was a mid-sized catamaran.  Outbound they took the scenic route, and showed off some sea caves and little islands inhabited only by hundreds of seabirds.  The sea was quite calm compared to last year's evening cruise, for which we were very grateful.  There's always the chance for an unplanned encounter with sea life (last year we were pleased to meet a mother whale and her calf) ... this year we were accompanied by many groups of pelicans, each flying in tight formation.  Never did see them catch a fish, though.







The big event was the discovery of a school of manta rays swimming just beside the boat.  The photo doesn't do the sight justice:  there were probably 30 or them swimming together.  Look for the reddish shadows under the waves.  Truly a beautiful sight.




Having enjoyed the landmarks, we set off for Stone Island.  Disembarking, we squeezed into a trailer fitted out with many boards as seats, and off we went behind a big farm tractor.  We had perhaps a 20-minute ride over dirt roads and through residential areas.  It's always impressive how much vegetation thrives in this hot, dry climate.

A special treat was a stop half-way along the route, where we could purchase a bag of remarkably fresh peanuts.  We opted for unflavored ones still in the shell, but others enjoyed a sugared variety or some laced with a good dose of chili.  Both peanuts and shrimp are in high season at this time.

Arriving at the venue, we found a nice table right at the front of the veranda.  We'd opted to include the meal in our ticket price, which limited our selection a bit but gave us free beer.  Each of us ordered up the "combo" plate, but we had some free time before lunch would be served.

The activity we chose was to take a ride in a horse-drawn wagon.  This, too, was quite a rustic transport, and it was educational to return briefly to a time when this would have been a fast way to get from place to place.  At one point, we were handily passed by ... a full-sized farm tractor.  Yikes!  But then there's the obligatory real-estate office...

Our driver spoke very little English, so we took his cues on where to look and hoped we "got the message."  In many cases, it was clear -- a stew pot bubbling over an open fire, bushes in bloom, a peek at the ocean view. 

At other times we found things interesting which surely were mundane to him -- a privacy fence of woven palm fronds, for instance.  It was a relaxing ride, and an interesting look at life in a warm climate and in a small place.  There surely are not many secrets here!






Back at the venue, lunch was about to be served.  We enjoyed the "combo," which included a quesadilla, a roasted chicken drumstick of impressive dimensions, and a taco; of course with the requisite rice, beans, and lettuce on the side.  We certainly got our money's worth for that plate!

Our guide was making the rounds to ensure that everyone was having a good time, and discovered that Claudette had friends in Tepic.  As it happened, one of our fellow tour members was a taxi driver in Tepic, so our guide made some introductions and small talk.  It's unlikely that they will meet up again, but it was a fun coincidence. 



Lunch completed, we just kicked back and enjoyed watching and hearing the surf roll in.  There were a variety of beach vendors, and a few ventured inside the fenced-off area protecting us, but none were persistent.  It certainly seems like a challenging way to make a living, walking up and down the sand all day carrying all your wares.




At one point we were startled to see a 3-man band, including a gentleman with a string bass slung over his shoulder, making way up the beachfront.  The bass seemed well-weathered, what with both sand and salt air, so we hoped it maintained a good tone.







 Soon enough it was time to trek on home; first one group and then another repaired to the board-strewn trailer for the ride back to the catamaran.  There was a large group with a gaggle of kids who had come fully-prepared, with coolers and bags of food and distractions; we were impressed with the management of all those logistics.

We again enjoyed the fine view of the world's highest operating lighthouse (the Rock of Gibralter is higher, but no longer operational)

 The entry to the port reminded us of Easter Island, but the forms are used to make a strong breakwater.












 Our tour guide was also our driver back to the hotel.  He had been serenading Linda with a song in Spanish featuring her name, and was in a jolly mood.  Some others riding closer to the front engaged him in conversation about his job, and indeed the three of us had remarked to each other that it had to be a challenge to deliver essentially the same "patter" every trip.  He observed that when he had a good group (and ours was viewed to be one) that it really was quite fun, but with a surlier crowd it could be quite challenging.  One can only imagine...






 


Back home it was a veritable Origami Orgy!

It was close to dinnertime, but after the monster combo plate, no one was really inspired to dine.  Late in the evening, just because we could, we tucked in to a chunk of truly average cheese which somehow had crawled into our grocery cart much earlier.  How far the mighty can fall!